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Sewing Tools

by Maria Nerius

Any sewing project can be easier to create with the help of the right sewing tool. Knowing which tools are available and how to use them can help save you time, effort and energy. The tools listed here are the basic tools of the trade for sewing professionals who refer to the tools as construction aids or helpers. My friends often call me a tool snob or tool fool because I am just absolutely fascinated by art and craft tools so I’ve added a few of my favorite tools to this list.

Most tools originate from clever creative individuals who saw a problem and took the time to fix it! Some of the tools listed have a long history of use while some are more recent additions to the sewer’s basket. Many have been improved over time, some that were originally made of metal or wood are now made with less expensive materials so they are quite affordable. Many tools have more than one function or can be used to accomplish several different tasks.

Beeswax
Made from 100% beeswax (no paraffin is added) available in a removable grooved plastic holder or sold as a molded shape. Use to stiffen thread to prevent tangling and knotting in hand sewing. For easy application, pull thread through the grooves in the plastic holder or place thread between the wax and a finger and pull the thread through slowly.

Bodkin
Long, blunt flat needle with a large narrow slot eye. Use for threading elastic, cord or ribbon through casings and eyelets. Good for turning bias tubing. Bodkin types can vary. Some have an eye-like slot, some have sawteeth and others have gripping prongs through which the elastic, ribbon or cord is threaded.

Button Elevator
Plastic tool that raises buttons above fabric to create accurate and uniform thread shanks. Shank spacing generally ranges in 1/8" increments up to 1/2". Can be used for hand sewing or machine sewing buttons onto a garment.

Disappearing or Quilting Ink Pen
Non-permanent ink pen, usually with blue or violet ink used for transferring pattern markings. Ink eventually disappears or is easily removed with water. Check ink on scrap fabric prior to using it on your project.

Fray Preventer
Colorless liquid plastic solution in a squeeze bottle with a needlenose tip that is applied to fabrics that ravel or fray easily. The solution locks fibers and can withstand repeated laundering.

Fusible Webbing
Non-woven web textile with a bonding agent on both sides that is activated by a steam iron. Use to secure two layers of fabric together for hemming, tacking, mending and trim application. Particularly useful for securing fabric layers when stitch marks are undesirable. Available by the yard or in pre-packaged strips of varying widths. Excellent for appliqué work.

Fabric Glues
Liquid glue that eliminates the need for stitching by bonding fabric to fabric permanently. Works with natural fiber fabrics and most natural and synthetic blends. Withstands machine washing and drying but check product for dry cleaning information. There are also powder fabric glues that you pour in a line then heat with an iron to make a permanent bond.

Hot Glue or Low-Temp Glue Gun and Glues
The world could almost be a no-sew with this handy tool, but it can come in handy to quickly bond pieces and parts of a sewing project. The low-temp glue gun is still hot enough to make your fingers wag, but it not give you the serious burns that the high or hot temp glue gun can. Many glue guns come with interchangeable tips for special needs like the needlenose tip for hard to reach bonds and the ribbon or spreader tip that produces a fine thin film of glue for easy hems. Glues came in a variety of special bonding needs too. Look for wood, jewelry (heavy and nonporous objects), floral (bonds in extreme temperatures of hot and cold) and fabric (washable).

Loop Turner
Long, slim piece of metal with a catch hook or other gripper at the end used for grasping fabric to turn narrow bias or straight tubing to the right side when making spaghetti straps, narrow belts, button loops and frogs.

Magnifying Lens
Magnifier lenses come in various types. Hand sewing magnifiers are designed to be worn around the neck. Sewing machine magnifiers have an extendible folding arm and self-adhesive foot that can be attached to the front of the sewing machine. Both are used for needle threading and intricate stitching. A bar magnifier with a flat surface is also available for magnifying printed instructions; good for counted cross-stitch projects.

Needles
Needles come in different shapes and sizes. There are sharps with a sharp point and blunts with a blunted point. Eyes of needles vary according to what should be threaded onto the needle from sewing thread to floss to ribbon to yarn. Specialized needles are used for hand sewing, embroidery, needlepoint, tapestry, quilting and other needlearts. Most packaging will help you select the appropriate needle. Hand sewing needles have an eye on the opposite end of the point. Sewing machine needles have an eye at the same end as the point.

Needle Threader
Such a simple idea, but oh the frustration this little device can save you from feeling. A thin looped wire is threaded through the eye of a needle, thread is placed into the loop and then the wire is pulled through the eye of the needle. Poof! Needle is threaded.

Pins and Pin Cushions
Straight pins range in lengths from 1/2" to 17/8". Look for sharp, smooth, rust resistant pins that can bend with slight pressure without breaking. Use different types for general sewing, quilting, working with silks or knits. Most popular style of pincushions is red tomato with emery strawberry that has a filling that sharpens and cleans pins and needles. Other pincushions are wristband style with rectangular cushion mounted on a plastic band and magnetic disks. Wool is the cloth type of pincushion as it helps to prevent rusting. Throw rusted pins and needles away.

Point Turner
Pushes out collar, cuff and pocket points without damaging the fabric. Available as a flat wooden or plastic tool with a pointed end and a rounded end to hold a seamline open for pressing or a combination point turner and button gauge.

Seam Ripper
Curved metal cutting blade encased in a plastic holder with a protective cover. One end of the curved blade has a sharp point and the other has a small plastic ball that prevents the ripper from slipping. Use to remove stitches one at a time, slash machine stitched buttonholes and for picking out threads.

Sewing Basket or Toolbox
A place for everything and everything in its place. There are dozens of available organizers for your sewing tools from baskets to totes. Even a tackle box with all its compartments is grand.

Sewing Gauge
Six-inch double sided sliding ruler with many uses. Use it to mark hems, buttons and buttonholes as well as design details such as pleats and tucks.

Tape Measure
Flexible fiberglass, metal or fabric tape ideal for taking body measurements, measuring patterns and layouts as well as general measuring. Fabric types tend to stretch out after prolonged use.

Thimbles
Small metal, rubber, leather or plastic cup that fits over the index or middle finger. Used in quilting and other hand sewing to protect fingertips from pin pricks and to help push a needle through multiple layers of fabric.

Tracing Wheel
Wheeled tool with a handle used for transferring pattern markings to one or more fabrics using a wax or carbon sheet. Adjustable double wheel style is used for marking seam allowances at the same time. Use a serrated tracing wheel for tightly woven, medium to heavyweight fabrics. Choose a smooth wheel for finer weight, delicate fabrics.

Tweezers or Grips
Indispensable tool for hard to reach places. Use to thread sewing machine needles and serger loopers, remove stitching, replace sewing machine needles and assist in hand quilting through multiple layers of fabric.

Weights
Weights are available in various sizes and weights. Use instead of pins to hold the pattern on the fabric to save time and eliminate pin marks. Good for keeping the fabric grain straight during the layout and cutting of pattern pieces. Shaped weights that fit around curves and corners provide additional control around the edges of a pattern piece. Smaller, lighter dressmaker weights can be placed in hems of coats and draperies to control and improve hanging and draping.

Maria Nerius is a Professional Crafter, Author, and Contributing Writer and Columnist to industry trade journal, Craftrends.

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