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Batty About Batting
by Maria Nerius
There are 4 types of batting (or affectionately called batts by sewers and quilters): cotton, cotton/poly blends, polyester and wool. These types of batting are classified as either natural or synthetic fibers. Batting and selecting the perfect batting is a major concern for quilters. For centuries, quilts were made from start to finish with all-natural fibers. Wool and cotton were readily available and became the staple for quiltmakers to use as a filling. The other property that interests quilters is whether the batting is bonded or needle punched. Let’s figure out the difference between the two processes of bonded and needlepunched before we discover the features of whether batting is cotton, cotton/poly blend, polyester or wool.
Bonded Batting
Bonded batting has a light resin coating or glaze applied to both sides of the batting. This coating adds strength and locks the fibers to help prevent fiber migration. The newer, heat-sealed fibers create a similar effect. Bonded batting usually has a higher loft and airier appearance than a needlepunched batting. It holds up well with use and does not require extensive quilting. Therefore, it is ideal for both comforters and quilts. Because it is so easy to handle, many quiltmakers prefer bonded batting above all others, for both machine and hand quilting.
Needlepunched Batting
Needlepunched batting is made by a unique method, which entangles the fibers to hold them together. The process for making this batting consists of passing the blanket of fibers through a needling machine called a fiber locker. The machine has a multitude of barbed needles or hooks mounted on a grid, which vibrate up and down. The blanket passes through the barbed needles, which pierce the blanket and entangle the fibers as they withdraw. This same process is used to make non-woven blankets. The loft of needlepunched batting varies depending on the number of layers in the blanket. When fewer layers are used, a low loft, soft batting results. This traditional type of batting is highly desirable to accentuate the fine details of quilting and is ideal for quilted clothing.
Natural Fibers
Cotton Batting. Cotton batting is manufactured today much the same as it was in the 1850s when the first commercially produced batts were made. The natural felting quality of the cotton fiber provides the friction to hold the fibers together, thus lessening the chances of fiber migration. In the past, most cotton battings had a glaze finish which helped to hold the fibers together. The quilts made with these batts had to be quilted no more than one-half inch apart to hold the cotton batting in position, even then, washing could cause the batting to mat and bunch. New research has produced a superior batting using needlepunch technology. These needlepunched cotton batts may be quilted as far as two to three inches apart. There are also cotton battings on the market that utilize a scrim to hold the fibers together. However, a scrim can make the quilt more difficult to needle and is usually made of polyester, which means your quilt, will no longer be all-natural. Cotton batting is soft, drapable and thin enough to achieve the fine quilting stitches experienced quiltmakers desire. Cotton has the capacity for absorbing moisture, thus creating a cooling effect in the summer and a natural warmth in winter. Be sure that the cotton batting you choose is clean and free of all seed waste. Small seed particles can cause difficulty in quilting if you hit them with your needle. In addition, seeds can secrete oils that can stain the surface of the quilt.
Cotton Blends Batting. For a long time the only cotton batting available was made of 100% cotton fiber. After years of research, a batting made from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% polyester was developed. This batting combines the easy handling and stability of polyester with the natural advantages of cotton. The blend of fibers promises and delivers lightweight warmth and an heirloom quality to quilts and clothing, yet resists fiber migration. Because it is bonded for stability, it is easy to use, even for beginners.
Wool batting. Wool batting, although expensive, offers many of the same qualities as cotton batting. It is soft, drapable, and when intricately quilted, gives a beautiful textural dimension to the quilt. Wool batting offers natural warmth with relatively little weight. For ease in handling and reduction in fiber migration, most wool batting is finished with a cheesecloth or lightweight fabric cover. Wool batting is produced from long virgin-wool fibers. First the wool is scoured to remove the dirt and natural oils. Then impregnating the fibers with chemicals that resist moth larvae mothproofs it. The wool is then carded, where the fibers are opened, mixed and finally formed into an even blanket. Like cotton, the natural felting property of the wool fibers helps to hold the batting together.
Synthetic Fibers
The invention of polyester batting revolutionized the quilting market. The ease in handling, along with the warmth and strength of polyester batting account for the widespread increase in the popularity of quilting. Inexperienced quiltmakers could now successfully make a quilt or comforter without the need for extensive hand quilting.
Polyester Batting. Polyester fiber is made from chemicals. Dacron®, Kodel®, Fortrel®, and Trevira® are a few of the well-known polyester fiber brands. Regardless of wear and washing most polyester batting will return to its original shape because it is extremely resilient. It is lightweight, non-allergenic and cannot be harmed by moths or mildew. To produce batting, polyester fibers are fed into a carding machine where they are combed into parallel rows (layers) and laid into a blanket form by a machine called a crosslapper. The loft and weight of the batting will vary with the number of layers used in the blanket. Additional processes are necessary to produce the variety of polyester batting available today. The blanket, as it comes off the carding machine, is called unbonded batting. It is available in many weights and thicknesses, with three inch most often the thickest loft available commercially. Unbonded batting has many drawbacks. Its loose construction makes it difficult to work with, and often, high and low areas develop. Because there is no finish, the fibers tend to migrate (beard) through the fabric in the quilt, a problem of great concern for quiltmakers today. To lessen the chance of fiber migration, it is advisable to cover the unbonded batting with cheesecloth or a lightweight fabric. The high-loft, unbonded batting is a popular choice for tied comforters.
Beard Burns Quilters
Bearding, the unsightly problem of the fibers from the batting working their way through the surface of a fabric is a common problem with polyester and wool batts. Cotton batts do no beard according to the manufacturers, although it is possible for the cotton/polyester blends to beard. Once bearding it is almost impossible to stop the problem with the exception of the needle punched batts. After the outer fibers have worn off the needle punched batting, it will stabilize and stop bearding.
Forget Fretting From Fiberfill
The white cloud like stuff you stuff dolls and toys with to fill out the form is called fiberfill. Many sewers and crafters are tempted to use all sorts of odds and ends from dry cleaner lint as stuffing, but please be very careful with such materials especially when making children’s toys or items. Many substitutes can mold and mildew and will not hold up with use. Remember too that many people have serious allergies. You should look for the following characteristics on fiberfill package labeling:
- Resilience. Will hold up to wear and tear and keep its shape?
- Non-allergenic
- Washable
- Will not shift or bunch even after many washings.
Two important facts to be considered when selecting fiberfill are the fiber content and how the fiberfill is made. Most fiberfill is made from 100% polyester fiber and is processed on a machine known as a garnet. In the process of garnetting, a machine takes the fiber, combs it and lays it into a batt form. At this point the fiber is folded or chopped and then packaged as fiberfill. However, it is important to be aware that the process of garnetting may reduce the resiliency of the fiberfill. The fibers are all running in the same direction, creating a flat surface, which may cause the fiberfill to mat or bunch. Fairfield’s fiberfill is not garnetted, but produced by a unique manufacturing process that makes the fiberfill more versatile by giving it added loft, bulk, resilience and a softer feel. In this process the lifeless polyester fibers are exploded, much like popcorn. The processed fibers have a random arrangement, which gives added resilience and eliminates matting and bunching. Because of this exclusive process Poly-fil® will go further and stay bouncier for the life of the project. It’s something to consider when selecting the fiberfill you’ll stuff your pillow, doll or toy with.
Fairfield had a few great tips for stufffing:
- Always select the highest quality fiberfill available. Each brand is quite different, and often a more expensive fiberfill will actually go a greater distance and cost you less in the long run.
- Prepare area or item to be stuffed by removing loose threads and trimming excess fabric from seams and corners. Clip inward curves and notch outward curves in fabric before turning right side out.
- Have stuffing aids ready. Items to try are a wooden spoon, eraser end of an unsharpened pencil, a T-pin, or a commercial stuffing tool.
- When stuffing, select the amounts of fiberfill in relation to the area to be stuffed. Use small amounts for arms and fingers, and larger amounts for heads and bodies.
- Keep fiberfill fluffy. Do not compress into a ball (to avoid a lumpy appearance). Many fluffy layers will yield a smooth result.
- Work the fiberfill into the project with your fingers, and then push it firmly into position with a stuffing aid.
- Smooth each added amount of fiberfill by gently compressing with your hands from the outside. In larger areas, carefully move the fiberfill into place by massaging the outside of the project.
- To manipulate the fiberfill tightly into corners, insert a straight pin or a T-pin through the project and work the fiberfill into position.
- For projects that require flexibility, follow the steps above without packing the fiberfill too firmly so as to keep it fluffy.
- When stitching the opening closed, work the fiberfill loosely to the edge and begin stitching the seam. Work additional fiberfill under the stitched seam to create a smooth finish.
- To add weight, for a posed appearance (arms, legs, and bottom), use pellets, a weighted stuffing material. Avoid using rice or birdseed that attracts insects and promotes mold growth.
Pellets
This type of stuffing or filler offers weight and balance to dolls or toys. Often an arm or a leg of a doll or teddy bear doesn’t even need to be completely filled to benefit from this type of filler. You may be tempted to use sand, cat box filler, birdseed or fish tank gravel, but beware of how this type of filler may hold up in the long run. Sand and litter are not waterproof, birdseed may mold and mildew and aquarium gravel can have sharp edges that will eventually poke or tear fabric. You can follow many of the same steps Fairfield outlined for fiberfill, but you will pour the pellets into the item to be stuffed rather than carefully pushing it into the item. Look for the following characteristics:
- Consistent in shape
- Consistent in weight
- Smooth edges
- Safe and non-toxic
- Water resistant
Maria Nerius is a Professional Crafter, Author, and Contributing Writer and Columnist to industry trade journal, Craftrends.
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